“350” – “No, 360 is the lowest.” Hussain and I were arguing over 10 Dirham, which is equivalent to $1.25 (actually, 62.5 cents, because Nikhil and I were splitting the cost). Sounds ridiculous, but hey, if you’re traveling for a year, every dollar counts. I finally gave in to the 360, because otherwise I’d be hiking Mt. Toubkal, the tallest mountain in North Africa, without hiking boots, gloves, or poles – pretty much a death wish. Plus, for one of very few times in Morocco, I wasn’t able to get someone to drop a single Dirham from the price, even after using every negotiation tactic I knew. I was in Imlil now, and maybe the people here were different than the Marrakchees (natives of Marrakech)? Maybe the people here actually told you the true price from the beginning and weren’t trying to cheat you all the time? Of course, I learned that wasn’t exactly true, since we were able to turn a 2400 Dirham guide to the top of Toubkal into a 1200 Dirham guide that also included accommodations, two lunches, breakfast, dinner, and a mule to carry our belongings during the hike. But Hussain was different – I had a feeling, and I was right.
After our hike, I came back to Hussain to return the hiking gear. Our original hotel was full, so I asked Hussain if he had any recommendations. Not only did he recommend a hotel for us, but he closed his store, so he could walk me there and negotiate a price similar to what we were paying at our original hotel, a price that was half of what the room was supposed to be. Hussain really just wanted to help out. Hussain was just being Hussain.
Later that evening, I went looking for a cheap bite to eat. I was checking out the restaurants in the village when Hussain popped up and asked me what I was looking for. I told him I wanted a good meal for as cheap as possible. Hussain took me to his friend’s restaurant and got me a Berber omelette and two loaves of bread for 20 Dirham ($2.50). That meal wasn’t even on the menu, but Hussain just wanted to help out. Hussain was just being Hussain.
Hussain works in Imlil but is from a small town about 3 km away. He was born and raised in the village and is now making his living through his hotel and hiking shop. He lives a simple life and loves meeting and interacting with the tourists that come into town. In fact, he learned English, Spanish, and authentic Arabic for that reason. He loves his town and as he said, does his best to “practice being a true Muslim.” Hussain didn’t want anything from me other than for me to enjoy my visit to Imlil. He introduced me to his friends, and although, I only had the chance to speak with all of them for about ten minutes (while waiting for our shared taxi), I saw the same kind spirit in all of them. They told me jokes, gave me Islamic books, and even asked me if I wanted a small gift from their shop. They were so hospitable, and while this sounds a bit silly, it was sad to leave such a friendly place, especially knowing I was going back to Marrakech (no offense, Marrakech is wonderful in a different way).
I thought about a lot because of my visit to Imlil:
1) I came into Imlil with such a negative mindset. I was quick to assume that Hussain and everyone else was trying to hustle me. I’ll never know what the real price of the hiking gear or that Berber omelette was, but after talking to Hussain, I’d like to think that he was completely honest. I’ve practiced the diversity competencies of TFA for the past two years (and longer without knowing), but I seemed to walk into Imlil without any knowledge of them. People were trying to take advantage of me for weeks (including Gambia), and it was hard not to ignore that. In hindsight, I know that was wrong. It’s important to not lose faith in humanity just because of a few people trying to make a living the only way they know how – “getting by is not a sin,” right? That’s up for argument, I guess. Anyway, Hussain was definitely a wake up call to all of this.
2) Would Hussain and his friends have been so hospitable if I were not Muslim? Imlil, according to Hussain, is 100% Muslim, and when people found out I was Muslim (and spoke Arabic), you could sense a level of excitement that wasn’t there before. They became so much more friendly and willing to converse. They invited me to sit down with them, and even in Marrakech, people would just continue to walk down the street with me just to have a conversation and then return back to what they were doing. I don’t know how they would’ve acted if I were a different religion, but Hussain spoke of being a true Muslim. Besides the Five Pillars, what is being a true Muslim? It’s definitely not being accepting only of Muslims, and it surely isn’t cheating people out of their money. Hussain seemed to realize that; sadly, I can’t speak for the rest of Imlil though. It’s such a shame considering the deep faith in Islam that was evident throughout the town. You know, the deep faith in a religion that preaches sincerity, kindness, respect, truth, and all the other proper morals of society.
3) Hussain showed me how big of an impact a small gesture can make. Because of Hussain, I had a wonderful night’s sleep and dinner, and it only took 20 minutes of his time. I wonder how many times in my life I missed the opportunity to make someone’s day just by asking “How can I help you?” I don’t know, but I’ll do my best to make sure I don’t do it again. Thank you, Hussain.
4) Hussain was in Imlil to make a living, but he didn’t forget to have fun in the meantime. Hussain was always talking to people, laughing, lending a hand, enjoying his time (so it seemed). The past three years of my life have been driven by work. While I wouldn’t change them, especially the last two, because my “work” was my kids, I have learned that it’s ok to take a break – read a book on Sunday, take a day to catch up with friends, sit down when you eat (walking and eating in Morocco is actually rude), have a nice conversation over tea, smile often, lend a helping hand…simply, enjoy life.
I asked Hussain if he was happy living in such a small place with so little, and he said he wouldn’t change a thing – well, except for the cold winters, but luckily, he has Marrakech to escape to. Hussain is happy living a simple (and what we may consider an unconventional) life. A life in which he takes the time to enjoy every moment and help those around him do the same.
“Every man is guilty of all the good he did not do.”
-Voltaire